Phoenix Social Club is the latest food and beverage concept to open at the H Hotel, taking up residence in the first-floor space previously occupied by Okku.
The
contemporary Japanese restaurant has been replaced by what can only really be
described as a post-prohibition nightlife destination that blends together a
speakeasy bar and supper club concept, into something rather unique for the
Dubai restaurant scene.
Entering past a wall illuminated in flames, we traverse a narrow stairway
before reaching an elevated bar that fills the left side of the room. The bar
is both striking and memorable thanks to the bejeweled ceiling it sits beneath
and a seat here is a great place to soak up the Phoenix Social Club vibe. A
live duo performs a Jazz rendition of Mario’s 2004 hit ‘Let Me Love You’,
filling the narrow space with an unexpected atmosphere that does not let up
during the evening, an impressive feat considering our early dinner
reservation. It would appear other guests have the same idea, for the
restaurant is nearing capacity by the time we make our way into the dining
room.
Snippets
from retro black and white movies fill a large screen at the back of the room,
while portraits of Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn adorn the walls. These
help to create the feeling of modernized nostalgia that the venue is striving
for. We sink into comfortable leather chairs separated by sleek marble table tops
and although the tables are perhaps a little too close together for our liking,
the small space has been utilized well.
We
begin with a selection of mixology from the expertly crafted beverage menu. In
a city known for extravagant presentation and gimmicks, the team at Phoenix
Social Club have really outdone themselves when it comes to the drinks. One of
the highlighted beverages features an artisanal ice cube with a cork, inside
lies the majority of the drink which must then be syphoned out using a small
pipet. Similarly, the Monroe’s Charm which is named after the iconic actress is
a grapefruit and mandarin concoction adorned with candy floss.
As
a nightlife venue Phoenix Social Club feels skewed more towards beverages than
a dining destination, which is a shame because the short menu selection offers
some exceptional dishes. Broken down into small and large plates and a number
of tandoor breads, key members of the kitchen team have come from the recently
opened The London Project on Bluewaters Island and the innovation from the
culinary team is clearly evident across both venues.
Most
interesting is Phoenix Social Club’s ‘trust the chef’ concept which puts your
food entirely in the hands of the kitchen. We haven’t seen anything quite like
this in Dubai before and it’s rather exciting to have each dish arriving at the
table as a complete surprise. Our meal begins with the Tandoor Bread with
Burratina, a beautiful introduction to the cuisine at Phoenix Social
Club that presents warm bread served with paprika truffle honey and a ball of
creamy burratina topped with balsamic pearls and fresh truffle.
Alluring
ingredients and textures continue with the Chicken Liver Parfait. Plated
alongside crème fraiche, caramelized yoghurt and endives, the inclusion of rose
brings a hint of sweetness and color to a plate which offers artistic
presentation. The Ceviche of Hamachi should also not be missed, mainly due to
the inclusion of burnt avocado and tiger milk which helps to elevate the flavor
of the dish.
From
the large plates we enjoy the Chargrilled Octopus. Bringing an
impressive cook to the protein, Japanese flavors are prominent, with the
octopus tentacle sitting upon a nori powder and wrapping seductively around a
miso foam in a dish of impressive construction. The Beef Cheek Tortellini also
fare rather well as me move from Asian into European cuisine, though we would
have preferred more pieces of the pasta which is served as beautiful porcini
beurre monte and parmigiano-reggiano crisps.
Only
two choices are offered for dessert, a Compressed Watermelon with Textures of
White Chocolate and a Saffron and Pear Sorbetwith Spiced Caramel and
Brick Pastry. Both are wisely light and executed well but with menu development
at Phoenix Social Club still ongoing we would like to see a few more dessert
options added in the coming months.
Inspired
by the supper clubs of 1930s and 1940s New York, Phoenix Social Club has
captured the essence of a bygone era while managing to modernize and refine the
idea of a secret hangout, into an exciting nightlight venue that combines
dining, drinking and dancing. The venue looks likely to be a sure fire hit for
the Trade Centre area and injects some much-needed life into the F&B
offering at the H Hotel.
Tandoor
Bread with Burratina, AED 54
Chicken
Liver Parfait, AED 35
Hamachi
Ceviche, AED 70
Chargrilled
Octopus, AED 75
Beef
Cheek Tortellini, AED 70
Phoenix Social Club, H Hotel, Dubai, +971 4 338 3434